The best place for an air conditioner in the living room is an interior wall, high up on the wall, on the side of the room furthest from windows and doors. This way, the cool air distributes optimally throughout the space without blowing directly on people. In this article, we answer the most frequently asked questions about placement, height, air distribution, and creating a ducting hole in the wall.

Which wall in the living room is most suitable for an air conditioner?

An interior wall is the best choice for mounting an air conditioner in most living rooms. Interior walls are less exposed to outdoor temperatures, allowing the unit to operate more efficiently. Furthermore, the distance to the exterior wall for the pipe routing is typically shorter, making installation easier.

Preferably choose a wall centrally located in the room so that the airflow reaches all corners. Avoid walls with large windows or a glass facade, as direct sunlight on the unit disrupts temperature measurement and reduces efficiency. A wall opposite the seating area often works well: the cool air then blows over the seats without anyone sitting directly on them.

Do you have an open-plan kitchen? Then take the cooking environment into account. Grease and fumes can clog the air conditioner filters faster if the unit is mounted too close to the kitchen island.

At what height should you hang an air conditioner in the living room?

The ideal mounting height for a wall-mounted unit in the living room is between 2,0 and 2,4 meters above the floor. At this height, the unit has sufficient clearance to direct air downwards, while the top of the unit remains at least 15 centimeters clear of the ceiling for unobstructed air intake.

Hanging it too low means that cold air is blown out directly at head height, which feels uncomfortable. Too high, right against the ceiling, restricts air intake at the top of the unit and makes maintenance difficult. The manufacturer always specifies a minimum clearance above and to the sides of the unit in the manual, and those dimensions are the guiding principle.

From a practical point of view, it is also wise to match the height to the routing of the pipes. The higher the unit, the longer the pipes to the outside, but also the less visible they are in the room.

What is the best position for optimal air distribution?

The best position for optimal air distribution is a spot from which the air conditioner can reach the longest diagonal of the room. Mount the unit so that the airflow crosses the room lengthwise, not across the shortest distance. This way, the entire room benefits from the cooling instead of just the area directly in front of the unit.

Take the following factors into account when positioning:

Obstacles: Cabinets, beams, or an open staircase can block the airflow. Ensure that there is nothing between the unit and the seating area.
Slats: Modern air conditioners have horizontal and vertical louvers that you can adjust. Point them slightly upward when cooling, so that the cool air descends slowly instead of blowing straight down.
Ceiling fan: A ceiling fan combined with an air conditioner helps distribute the cool air more evenly, especially in larger living rooms.
Doors and passageways: If the living room adjoins a corridor or hallway, ensure that those doors remain closed during cooling to prevent energy loss.

Do you want to estimate in advance what capacity you need for your space? Via the air conditioning selection guide you can quickly determine the right capacity based on your situation.

Where should you NOT hang an air conditioner in the living room?

Avoid locations where the air conditioner is mounted directly above or next to heat sources, such as a fireplace, a radiator, or a television. The heat emitted by these devices interferes with the unit's thermostat and causes the air conditioner to work harder than necessary, which negatively impacts energy consumption and lifespan.

Other locations you'd better avoid:

Above a sofa or bed: Cold air then blows directly onto people, which can cause complaints in the neck and shoulders.
In a corner with poor circulation: A niche or a deep built-in cabinet obstructs the air intake at the top of the appliance.
Exterior wall with high solar exposure: The wall heats up, which reduces the efficiency of the unit and places extra strain on the pipes.
Too close to electrical installations: Condensation produced by the unit must never come into contact with power outlets or the meter box.

How is a hole made in the wall for the air conditioning pipe?

A hole, typically 60 to 80 millimeters in diameter, is drilled into the wall for the passage of the cooling pipes, power cable, and condensate drain. This is done using a diamond drill, which cuts through concrete, brick, or sand-lime brick precisely and with minimal dust, without damaging the surrounding wall.

The hole is drilled slightly outward at an angle so that condensation water drains out naturally and does not run back into the wall. After the pipes have been passed through, the space around the penetration is sealed with sealant or a special pipe penetration rosette to keep out drafts and moisture.

The exact diameter of the hole depends on the type of air conditioner and the thickness of the piping set. The installer or manufacturer specifies the correct size for this. Do you want to know in advance what such a drilling job costs? Then use the pricing tool for a quick indication.

When do you need a professional for air conditioning installation?

You always need a certified technician to install a split air conditioner. Filling and connecting the refrigerant circuit is legally reserved for technicians with an F-gas license. Without this certification, an installer in the Netherlands and the rest of the EU is not permitted to work with refrigerants.

In addition to the air conditioning technician, in many cases a professional is also needed to drill the pass-through hole in the wall. Especially when:

Reinforced concrete: Concrete walls with reinforcing steel require a powerful diamond drill and experience to correctly bypass or drill through the reinforcement.
Thick exterior walls: For walls thicker than 30 centimeters, professional tools are indispensable for a straight and accurate hole.
Monumental or historic buildings: Additional requirements apply here regarding how drilling into the facade is permitted.
Uncertain wall construction: If you do not know whether there are pipes, cables, or load-bearing elements in the wall, a professional is needed to prevent damage.

A DIY drill for lightweight gypsum block or timber frame interior walls is feasible in some cases, but if in doubt, it is always wiser to call in an expert.

How De Betonboorder helps with the installation of your air conditioner

Drilling a correct through-hole is a small but crucial step in air conditioning installation. A crooked, too large, or too small hole can lead to leaks, drafts, or damage to the pipes. We ensure that this hole is executed professionally from start to finish, so that your air conditioning installer can get to work immediately.

What we do for you:

Drilling a precise hole to the correct diameter and angle, even through reinforced concrete or thick exterior walls.
Working with high-quality diamond core drills for minimal collateral damage to the surrounding wall.
Neat work execution where the workplace is left tidy
Nationwide network of experienced professionals, available within two days in many cases

Would you like to know what a concrete driller can do for your situation? Then contact us without obligation. get in touch and we respond within 24 hours.

Where should you hang an air conditioner in the living room for the best cooling?